 |
Cut and Fit
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Neither Low rise jeans or ultra low rise jeans are a fit or a style. This is really very easy to understand. All fit refers to is the general “looseness” or “tightness” of a pair of blue jeans. Different manufacturers use different terms to classify their fit, but the following are generally accepted.
For Men's Jeans:- Regular/Traditional/ClassicFit: Slim seat, slim thigh, usually with tapered leg. (Western variation of this fit is same but with a boot-cut leg)
- Loose Fit: Full seat, loose thigh, tapered leg. Lots of room to move around in, for active men, very comfortable. For laid back, relaxed types. Very common at stores like PacSun and The Gap. Includes anywhere from 1 to 4 inches of additional fabric in the thighs and butt.
- Relaxed Fit: Relaxed seat, relaxed thigh, often matched with a tapered leg. Includes an extra inch in the rear. This is the style for the guy who is too busy to worry about his look and is the most popular fit for men. This fit is common at mass retail outlets like WalMart and Target
- Baggy: Refers to extra loose legs, very popular in the 1960’s with tight low rise waists.
- Tight/Skinny: An upcoming, edgy trend. Tight fit through-out
(Some manufacturers refer to boot cut jeans as a specific fit, but it is really a classification that belongs under the cut>leg type category)
Relaxed Fit Loose Fit For Women's Jeans:The above apply when shopping for traditional jeans but don’t cover all of the designer blue jeans options. Some of these classifications overlap or may even repeat what another covers, but the terms are used often enough to warrant being mentioned here. Notice that we have yet to mention low rise jeans…
- Slim Fit Jeans/Skinny: Close fit through the seat and thigh, usually accentuated by tapered leg cut.
- Easy Fit Jeans: Similar to relaxed fit with a lower rise and more room in the seat and thigh
- Natural Fit Jeans: Slightly fuller fit through hips and thighs
So What Does Low Rise Jeans Refer To?
Low rise jeans or ultra low rise jeans does not refer to a “fit”, it is a specific cut. As is the case with boot cut jeans, it is a matter of “shape”, and is very widely misused. Any fit can have a regular or low rise waist, although not all will work well. Low rise jeans are almost always a tight fit and most often have boot cut or flared leg cuts. Although you are now begining to see low cut skinnies too.
What about low rise jeans for men?
It's a 60's style that is yearning to be reborn.
What Does “Cut” Mean?
The cut refers to the actual SHAPE of the jeans. It is a matter of pattern design. Not all fits work with all possible cuts. Some combinations may seem to work today (a possible trend), but in a few years, or maybe as soon as next spring, they may just look funny or dated. Still, this is where the fun begins. No amount of washes or embellishments can make up for a bad cut!
Leg Types:
 | |||||
| Straight | Flared | BootCut | Tapered | Tight | Capri |
This is probably the most important styling decision. Options in leg cuts can be summarized as follows:
- Straight Leg Jeans: Traditional cut with a straight narrow leg that does not flare at the ankles
- Flared Leg: Jeans Narrow at the knee, and an extra wide flare at the leg. Most common leg type on low rise jeans.
- Boot Cut Jeans: Cut to skim the thigh with a slightly flared lower leg
- Tapered Leg: Jeans narrow towards the ankle
- Capri: A leg cut that usually ends just below the knee or at mid-calf. The term "crops" is sometimes used interchangeably with Capris, but should actually refer to pant legs that fall about three fourths of the way down the calf.
- Tight/Skinny: A close fit throughout the leg
- Stove Pipe: As the name implies, an over-sized straight leg cut
- Bell Bottoms: A wider, more exagerated flare named and made popular in the 1960’s, often used with low rise jeans and ultra low rise jeans
- Cropped: Jeans can be cropped any length from the midcalf to the knee. Ankle Length-Cut just above the ankle is used for a summery look
- Gaucho: Denim gaucho pants may be a passing fancy, but they sure are fun and can look great paired with the right boots.
- Cuffed: A Fold at the end of the legs. Not strictly a leg cut, but a common finish, sometimes added by the designer and sometimes by the user of the jeans for a personal touch.
Pocket Types:
Some pocket type options include:
- 4-pocket: No change pocket
- 5-pocket: This is the most widely used pocket configuration, with the fifth pocket being the small coin pocket.
- Fashion Pocket: Embellished, decorated
- Flap Pocket: Can be very flattering on a woman with a small rear
- Front Patch Pocket: Attached to the exterior of the pants
- Multi-pocket: As used in carpenter/cargo styles
- Rear Patch Pocket: Attached to exterior of pants
- Seamed Pocket: Pocket in inside pants, opening finished with a seam
- Utility Pocket: As used in cargo and carpenter pants
Waistband and Back Yoke
These details are extremely important, just think of where they are!
The waistband is made of a double layer of denim, it is more rigid, allowing it to hold your tummy much like a girdle. A wider waistband will help even more.
Jeans with waistlines that are cut higher in the back, and lower in the front, are figure-flattering. The most flattering jeans have 1% to 2% lycra or spandex in it. This elasticity allows them to hold everything in place without totally sacrificing comfort.
Now, the back yoke allows designers to play with perceptual illusions that, if used for the right reason, can enhance your look.
 | |||||
| Inverted Arc | Straight | "V" Shape | Sweet Heart | Wide Yoke | NoYoke With Seamed Pockets |
Here are some of the options:
- Inverted Arc: Gives the illusion of a fuller rear.
- Straight (Horizontal): This yoke line will make your waist appear wider. I wouldn’t recommend it if you wish to emphasize curves
- “V” Shape: Most widely used and most flattering back yoke cut.
- Sweet Heart: This yoke type can truly enhance a small derričre, as the cut is clearly outlining a curvy heart shape. It works very well with stretch tight jeans since it allows the pants to conform to your figure
- Extra Wide: This cut is used to achieve the “falling pants” look. The illusion is enhanced by the placement of the pockets way below the but. This look is great for some guys, though not very flattering to any woman’s figure. It beats having the pants actually falling, and certainly makes a point: illusions work!
- No Yoke: Of course, this option exists, and is usually combined with seamed pockets. The garment is contoured by the use of darts. This look is very conservative, and with a proper fit can work very well for women with large rear ends.
The size and shape of the back yoke directly affects the size and placement of the rear pockets,and this, as we know is crucial.
Fly Types:
- Zippered Fly
- Button Fly With Hidden Buttons
- Button Fly With Exposed Buttons
- Laced Fly
Waist Types:
The most obvious variation in waist type comes in the “rise”, which means nothing more than how far below the belly button the jeans will sit. It is measured from the crotch to the waist. Some designers use this as a major styling category, probably because of the unparalleled popularity of low and super low rise jeans in the last few years. It is nonetheless a subcategory of the type of cut.
Low rise and other waist levels:
- Regular Rise Jeans: Waistband is located precisely on the waist
- Low Rise Jeans: Waistband is located typically 2-3 inches below the belly button. The most popular rise in most denim brands, especially for women.
- Super Low Rise Jeans: Dangerously low, 3-5 inches below the belly button.
- Brazilian Low Rise Jeans:Brazilian jeans have almost come to define a waist type of their own: Ultra Low Rise Jeans. They have even come to incorporate a 2 inch zipper! Brazilian jeans are growing in popularity and are renowned for their daring sexy cuts, high quality and original embellishments. They are unique and worth looking into. The legend of the Brazilian butt lift must be based on some fact!
